Field guide
The practical stuff that saves time and avoids surprises. Read this once before your first episode.
Before anything else, get a Suica or Pasmo IC card at any major station. Load ¥2,000–3,000 and it works on every train, subway, bus and most convenience stores in the greater Tokyo area. If you have a compatible iPhone or Android, the mobile version in your wallet app is even more convenient — no queuing to top up. Top up at any station machine or convenience store.
Tokyo has two main rail systems: JR (Japan Railways, including the Yamanote loop line and the Chuo Line) and several private railways (Keio, Odakyu, Tokyu, Seibu, etc.). Your IC card works on all of them. The episode directions specify which line to use — most start from Shinjuku, which is the hub for both JR and many private lines.
The underground subway is a separate system from JR. Tokyo Metro and Toei Subway cover the central wards and inner neighbourhoods. Your IC card works on both. The subway is your main tool for the Shimokitazawa (Odakyu/Keio Inokashira), Nakano (JR Chuo), and Koenji (JR Chuo) episodes.
Google Maps handles Tokyo transit reliably. Enter your destination and select "Transit" — it will show you the exact train, platform and carriage number (sometimes). It even tells you which car to board to be closest to the exit. Download your destination area as an offline map before leaving WiFi.
The Zenpukuji Park episode involves a bus from Ogikubo station. Tokyo buses use the IC card — tap on, tap off. Route information is less intuitive than the trains. Google Maps handles bus routes well. If in doubt, ask at the station information desk.
Japan uses cash more than almost any other high-income country. Many smaller restaurants, izakayas and some shops are cash only. Carry ¥3,000–5,000 in cash at all times. ATMs at 7-Eleven and Japan Post accept foreign cards reliably. Hotel ATMs are unreliable.
7-Eleven, FamilyMart and Lawson are genuinely good. Hot food, sandwiches, onigiri, coffee, ATMs, printing, and they're open 24 hours. If you forget to prep your packed lunch, the convenience store is a perfectly reasonable backup — the food is better than it sounds.
Cherry blossom (late March to mid-April) is spectacular at Inokashira Park and Zenpukuji Park. Temperatures are mild (15–22°C). Weekends during blossom season are very busy at the parks — go on weekday mornings for a completely different experience.
Tsuyu (rainy season) brings weeks of grey skies and persistent rain. Not a reason to stay home — the city is still fully functional and many indoor episodes (Nakano, Koenji) are best in this season. For outdoor episodes (Mount Takao, Tama River), check the daily forecast and go on clear days. Trail 6 on Takao is slippery when wet — use Trail 1 after heavy rain.
Tokyo summer is hot and humid — 32–37°C with high humidity is common in August. The outdoor episodes are still worth doing but start before 9am or go after 5pm. Carry more water than you think you need. Todoroki Valley and Zenpukuji Park are particularly pleasant in summer heat because they're naturally cool and shaded.
Autumn is the best season for outdoor episodes. Temperatures cool to 18–25°C, humidity drops, and Mount Takao's forests turn red and gold. The Asagaya Tanabata festival runs in late July/early August — a different experience but worth noting.
Tokyo winters are dry and clear — ideal for Mount Fuji views from Mount Takao's summit (December and January are best for this). Cold but manageable (5–12°C). The indoor neighbourhoods (Nakano, Koenji, Shimokitazawa) are excellent in winter. Pack a proper jacket for Mount Takao days.
In the central neighbourhoods (Shinjuku, Shibuya, Harajuku) English is manageable. In the outer neighbourhoods covered by this guide (Koenji, Nakano, Asagaya), it's much more limited. Google Translate's camera mode (point it at a menu or sign) is genuinely useful. Download the Japanese language pack for offline use before you go.
Don't eat while walking — find a bench or step. Don't talk on the phone on the train (texting is fine). Trash cans are rare outside convenience stores — carry a small bag for your rubbish. Smoking is restricted to designated areas. Tipping is not practised and can cause confusion.
International roaming is expensive and often slow. A tourist data SIM (available at airports and convenience stores) or a pocket WiFi rental gives you unlimited fast data for the duration of your stay. IIJmio and Mobal are reliable SIM providers. Pocket WiFi can be rented at Narita or Haneda airports — book ahead.